Way Up in Downeast Maine

North of the Acadia, the Bold Coast Scenic Byway meanders 147 miles up the coast, past idyllic fishing villages, undulating barrens, and craggy cliffs, delivering you to the trailheads of some of the state's best hiking. Travelers who venture this far north are rewarded with an experience of Maine that feels unvarnished, elemental: sparser crowds, outstretching skies, coastlines that teem with wildlife. This is blueberry country. Go in July, and chances are you will pass roadside stands bearing handwritten signs: BLUEBERRIES. Don’t be afraid to pull over and buy a pint for the trail - they make a wonderful snack on a hot summer hike. 

The Machias Wild Blueberry Festival, an annual celebration in its 46th year, celebrates the "powerful little fruit" with crafts, food, entertainment, contests, and all things blueberry. 

In Edmunds, the Tide Mill Organic Farm farmstand is open daily, and well stocked with all the protein, produce, and preserves that you'll need to stock your fridge for a visit. Their friendly herd of cows often lounges in front of the cove, a vision that fills you. In Pembroke, Smithereen Farm hosts a farm store, a farmers' library, and a diverse array of summer events, all aimed at strengthening the local food ecosystem and inspiring a new generation of progressive farmers. In these far reaches, the past is intertwined with the present. 

In Marshfield, Maine Sea Salt Company offers free daily tours & tastings, educating guests about the ancient process of pulling salt out of the ocean: harvesting, evaporating, finishing and smoking. In Eastport, Raye's Mustard Mill grinds up Maine's only home-grown mustard, just as it has for over a century. 

A little up the road from Raye's, as far as you can go before you reach Canada, Phoenix Fine Wines serves local cheese plates and glasses of imported wines. Many nights, they host live music (recently, a Celtic trio); every night, the floor- to-ceiling windows offer a view of the "ever changing tides of Passamaquoddy Bay." It's a wonderful place to while away a few hours and consider the many lives that have been lived out here on the edge.